Issue I (Eagle Stamps)

Introduction

• It is relatively easy to determine if an Eagle stamp is genuine or not.
• Identifying its forgery type is somewhat harder.
• And identifying which of the eight types of genuine stamps it is can lead into a bewildering labyrinth of dots and line breaks.
• If you’re already familiar with the identification process, and are using this section only for reference, then you may skip ahead. (A quick navigation guide is provided below.)
• Otherwise, the following step-by-step process may work better. It is based on test-taking strategies: check the easiest possibilities (or questions) first, as you may get to skip the harder ones.

  The emphasis in the entire identifier is to use measurable points of identification, and eliminate as much as possible of subjective judgment for identifying Przedbórz stamps.
  
  This is especially important in identifying Eagle stamps.

• Read a brief summary of 1st issue forgery literature in general, and F5 forgeries in particular.
• Or read a summary or recap of the key differences, along with some key measurements.
• If you just want a refresher on a particular type, or want to go through the list in numerical sequence, you can use the links in this table:
  
  

  Stamp	Genuine	Forgery
  Mi 1 (2 gr.)	Type 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8	Type F1   F2   F3   F4   F5
  Mi 2 (4 gr.)	Type 1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8	Type F1   F2   F3   F4   F5

Step-by-step guide to Eagle stamps

	Reg. issue	Proofs (in various colors - the bottom colors here are not very accurate.)
#1
#2

First, look at the wing edge nearest the E in the left Przedbórz. Is there a dot on the inside edge of the wing? Yes - Go to Wing Dots, below.

No. It is a type 1, 2, 3, or 5 forgery. Go to F1-3, 5, below.

Wing Dots

Is the dot attached to the U representing a feather, and quite separated from the wing edge? Yes - It’s the wrong dot, and the stamp is a type 4 forgery. Go to F4, below. No - Continue
	Forgery 4 dot
Is the dot attached (or almost attached) to the wing edge, and quite separated from the nearest U? Yes - It’s a genuine stamp. Go to Genuine Issue I, below. No - Is the dot connected to both the edge of the wing and the U (symbolizing a feather)? Yes - it's some sort of rare freak. See an example. If it's not any of these, go back and start over, because you've exhausted all the logical possibilities. Something’s wrong. No - Go back and start over, because so far as we know now, these are the only two kinds of dots at or near the left wing edge. Something’s wrong.
	Genuine Wing Dot

Compare the left wing of genuine and forged stamps

Genuine Stamp Secondary Indications

1. There are two very fine lines going from the top of the eagle’s crown to the frame line. On forgeries, there is either no line (F3's), one thick line (F4's), or three thick “blots” in which the center one connects the crown to the frame line, and the side ones may or may not also connect (F1's and F2's). See crown closeups.
2. Genuine stamps have a well-defined oval accent over the Ó in Przedbórz. There is more variation on forgeries, especially over the right Przedbórz. (Add more discussion.)
3. The shape of the letters in Przedbórz and Grosze differs markedly between forged and genuine stamps. See Lower Groszes for examples.
4. The pattern of the background dots surrounding the eagle is markedly different on genuine stamps than on forgeries. Most authorities like to look at the dots under the left wing. I prefer to look above the right wing.
5. Look at the first R in "Miasto Przedbórz" on the left side of the stamp. There is a nick or indent on the back leg of #1 type 5 and #2 types 2, 4, 5, 6, & 7 stamps. I have not seen these on forgeries.
6. A variety of other methods have been proposed over the years, and are mentioned in the discussion of genuine catalog #1 (2 gr.) eagle stamps.

Genuine Issue I

There are eight major types of the genuine 2 Grosze and 4 Grosze stamps. If you want to know which type you have, continue here. First, write down the numbers 1-8, because you may have to exclude the easy-to-identify types, and narrow in on some of the harder ones. You’ll see examples on the appropriate page where the numbers are in strikeout font as the corresponding stamp type is eliminated.

Is the stamp denomination 4 grosze?

Yes - Go to 4 Grosze.

No - It’s 2 Grosze.

F1-3, 5

Look at the bottom Grosze. Is there a “Fat-G”, or “Short-top Z”? (The Fat G is about 1.6-1.65 mm wide vs. 1.35-1.4 mm in genuine stamps. In the Short-top Z, the top bar of lower Z is about 1.2 mm long vs. 1.4-1.45 mm on genuine stamps. The top bar starts about 0.2 mm to the right of where the bottom bar starts.)

Yes – it’s a F1 forgery.

No – Continue

Is there a “Tight-Mouth G”? (The opening in the mouth of the lower G is about 0.1 mm, vs. 0.2 mm on genuine stamps.)

Yes – it’s a F3 forgery.

No – Continue

Is there a “Slope-Top Z”? I.e., does the top of the Z slope up slightly when you look from right to left?

Yes – It’s a F2 forgery.

No – Continue

Is there a "Wide Open G" and a “Half-top Z”? I.e.,

1. Is the mouth of the G wide open and the top doesn't descend to close it at all (like the G's on the 2nd and 3rd issues)?
2. Is the top of the Z in Grosze only about 1 mm wide (vs. about 1.4 mm on genuine stamps, and 1.2 mm on F1's)?

Yes – It’s a F5 forgery.

No – We have a potential problem: Either a mistake has been made in looking at the various stamp characteristics, or you have a forgery which not been previously identified. First, try starting over again, to see if you missed something.

F4's

In addition to having a wrong dot on the left wing, F4 forgeries are characterized as having a Wide-mouth G (opening in mouth of lower G about 0.5 mm, vs. 0.2 mm on genuine stamps) and a Narrow Z (bottom bar of lower Z about 1.3 mm long vs. 1.4-1.45 on genuine stamps. ). There is a slight hook at the left edge of the top bar of the lower Z. Second-from left lower U is usually broken on the left side, producing a dot.